Derricksmash Logo Method

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The Logo Method

You can use this method much like the "Shaggy Method". This method, like Shaggy's, is best utilized when the logo you are applying consists of solid colors WITHOUT gradients or fade effects. This method will make multiple layers of color easier to line up and dramatically reduce waste and product on full-board logos. The cornhole customizing website, seems to be the only website to utilize this tape > stencil > spray method and he is now sharing it with us here on cornholewiki!

This method takes time, but each time you do it, you get exponentially faster. The result is a vivid logo that is stuck to the board better than a decal and isn't going anywhere for a real long time. If you have any questions about the write-up below, contact directly, and Derrick will be happy to help you out.

Materials Needed

1. Cornhole Boards built and, if applicable, prepped and painted with your preferred base coat.

2. Measuring Apparatus (tape measure, speedsquare, ruler, etc, etc)

3. Exacto Knife (A razor blade will also suffice, but you'll never regret your $3 investment of an exacto knife!)

4. Vinyl Transfer Tape (It can be purchased at any sign supply shop. The 24" wide roll is your best bet and will run you about $70/roll - about 100 yards.)

5. Spray Paint (The color(s) you will be using)

6. OPTIONAL - Actual size enlargement of the logo you want - this will be cut out and turned into a reusable stencil for later use. You can obtain an enlargement by printing off your computer and taping the pages together or by going to your local copy/office center. If your logo consists of more than one color, you may find yourself needing multiple copies of the same logo - read the process below before determining what exactly you will need. This is optional because maybe you would like/prefer to hand draw or sketch your design.

7. OPTIONAL - Tweezers. They will come in handy when you are peeling up small pieces of tape (like the gaps/hole inside letters).

8. OPTIONAL - Rolling Pin or a Paint Roller with a DRY brush on it.

Making the Stencil

This step can be ignored if the graphic or logo you are applying can be sketched by hand or if you simply prefer to do so. Otherwise, here's how I do it.

These instructions only work if the graphic or logo you are applying is a monogram - meaning it consits of solid colors only, and contains no gradients or 'fading' effect. An example would be logo of "The Cornhole Wiki", which is located in the top-left of this page. It consists of two colors, yellow and black, and has no fading effects. Both the yellow and black colors are solid.

1. You need to obtain the graphic digitally, in the highest quality you can.

2. Print it from your printer onto standard 8.5x11 paper.

3. Go to kinkos and use their enlargement machine to copy it up to the proper size. You will need to determine both the measurements (width or height) of your actual printout from the printer and the desired dimensions (width or height) of the logo once applied to the board. You will need to do some simple math to determine the percentage it needs to be enlarged. For example, if the logo you printed out from your printer is 5" tall, and you want it to be enlarged to 20" tall, you divide 20 by 5. 20 / 5 = 4.0 = 400%. Once you determine that, you are set. If you can't figure out how to use the enlargement machine, walk up to a kinkos representative and tell then you want this blown up to 400% and they'll have it done in seconds. Expect the enlargement to be between $2 and $5 dollars - $2 for logos that are about 4 square feet, and up to $6 for full-board logos. 4. This enlargement will soon become your stencil.

5. Lay the enlargement flat, and using an exacto knife, cut out the logo. You can't cut everything out. For example, if you were to cut out the letter "O", the stencil would become a CIRCLE, as opposed to the letter "O". You will need to leave little connectors in there to hold it all together. This is extremely important to learn...EVERY logo you do will need these connectors and you will often spend more time making connectors than actually cutting out the graphic. It all sounds complex, but once you do it a few times, it's as easy as cake.

6. Alright. Stencil is done. Move onto to "Applying the Logo". Sample Stencil

1. Cover the soon-to-be-painted area(s) of the cornhole boards with the vinyl transfer tape. Most of the time it's easiest to simply cover the entire face of the board. It may also be smart to plan for any borders or other design aspects at this time. example

2. Place your stencil onto the board. Measure it out and make sure it's square. You can use a little bit of masking tape to hold it in place. example

3. With a can a spraypaint, spray through the stencil. You aren't going for coverage - you are simply misting it through the stencil to transfer it onto the surface of the tape. Picture someone from the 80's spraying their massive hair-do with hairspray. The color does not matter! With that said, maybe invest in a randomly bright/contrasting color with a can that features a "fan spray" nozzle. The "fan spray" makes it more controllable and helps make sure the transferred logo is a bit crisper. Personally, I have a case of purple spray cans that have this "fan spray" tip and they are only used for applying stencils. If you mess up or don't like the placement, which will happen often, just re-measure everything and do it again with a different color. example

4. Remove stencil. Keep it around because it is re-usable. example

5. Begin cutting out your logo. example

6. Peel up the cut out tape and you should be left with your basecoat in the design of your logo. example

7. Being to spray paint your boards. Be sure to cover up what your don't want to get paint on it as over spray can be ridiculous sometimes. Make sure you press the edges down - this is where a rolling pin or a dry paint roller may come in handy. example

8. Apply several more coats. You're going for an even finish that is opaque. example

9. When it is about 95% dry, peel up all of the tape. Be careful when peeling it up, as the tape may fall on the board with slightly wet paint and mark up your basecoat. example

10. Done. Proceed as you wish with any polyurethanes and what not. Finished Cornhole Set

Tips and Tricks

  • If you can't find vinyl transfer tape, just use masking tape. The blue stuff will do just fine
  • Vinyl transfer tape will not stick to flat or satin paints very well. If it all you have laying around, apply a coat of polyetethane prior to beginning this process. Vinyl Transfer tape is a very low tack tape - about 1/3 as tacky as blue painters tape.
  • When your logo bleed onto the basecoat, you will need to touch it up by hand with a little paint brush. The issue can be a rough serfuace, failure to apply 'thin' coats, or not pressing down the edges in step #7 above.
  • For a more detailed walk-through or a walkthrough on using this method on a logo using more than one color, visit Derrick's Walkthrough on


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